Review: Thornbury Castle Hotel and Restaurant, near Bristol, UK /

In 2021, The Times crowned the Thornbury Castle Hotel as Britain’s best romantic hotel. Guests travel back in time to Tudor times, to a castle that was once Henry Vlll’s escape, for a majestic taste of Renaissance life.

Sleep royally in the octagonal Henry Vlll suite, where he and Anne Boleyn stayed for ten days in 1535 while awaiting the end of the plague in Bristol. Climb the 77 steps to the fairytale Catherine of Aragon Tower with its 3-meter-wide bed. Or relax in one of the other 25 beautifully composed bedrooms. Reminiscent of palatial Tudor life, Thornbury has opulent bedchambers rather than rooms.

Thornbury Castle, begun in 1510 by Edward Stafford, 3rd Duke of Buckingham, was nearing completion when Henry appropriated it after having Stafford executed for treason in 1521.

The welcome

With only 27 bedrooms, the welcome is warm and personal. First we get to see the lounge, where afternoon tea is served, and then the library which leads to the bar.

Our luggage is taken through the courtyard to our bedroom and low arched doorways are indicated. No wonder Henry VIII had frequent headaches. At 6 feet tall he was a giant of a Tudor.

The bedroom

Under a beamed ceiling and glittering chandelier, Mary Queen of Scot’s master bedroom has armchairs, dressing table, chests of drawers, fireplace and tapestries.

Our view is across the courtyard with its rose garden to a bay window that formed part of Stafford’s first floor accommodation. Above is a red brick chimney dating from 1514 which is a year older than the chimneys at Hampton Court.

Although there is plenty of exposed brickwork within the castle’s five-foot-thick walls, the bedroom, with chandelier-style wall lamps casting warm light and acres of fitted carpet, is surprisingly cozy.

Thornbury’s owners have discreetly introduced modern conveniences: a fridge hidden behind the dark wood inlay, a TV packed with accommodation information and phone charging points by the bed. Wide four-poster beds are designed for modern people, not for vertically challenged Tudors. Each bedroom is named after a prominent Tudor character, a cast list featuring Henry’s six wives. The story of the difficult life of Mary Queen of Scots is told in a gilded frame. Embroiled in Catholic/Protestant conflicts and European power politics, she was imprisoned for nineteen years before being executed.

The bathroom

A hobbit-sized door leads through a mini hallway with built-in cupboards to a dual aspect bathroom. Wooden shutters provide privacy.

Even here, you can’t escape the history and legacy of Stafford’s ego. His sealed button crest is etched into the glass of the shower door and embroidered on the washcloths.

The facilities

Thornbury’s 3 AA Rosette restaurant attracts foodies from far and wide. From the moment guests take a seat in the historic library or at the fireplace-roasted lounge for a drink, this is a royal dining experience. The black-tailed maitre d’sash floats between bar and restaurants, ensuring his vest staff, immaculate in white blouse and black tie, provide smooth service.

A portrait of Henry Vlll, in that famous leg-straddle dominant pose, overlooks one of the two dining rooms. Although he wouldn’t approve of chef David Campbell’s light and refined menu, despite the excellent sourcing and eye-catching presentation.

Henry was more of a glutton for half-roasted boar than a delicate, braised shank of beef. Pan-roasted halibut with salted cod puree, BBQ gem lettuce, brown shrimp and mussels would have been far too refined for the monarch’s taste. And what would have been the volatile carnivore’s response to seasoned quinoa?

In terms of facilities, there isn’t a single cardio machine at Thornbury Castle, nor a lap pool. But with a nod to 21st century pampering, a menu of relaxing massages is also available.

Otherwise the activities are distinctly Tudor. Archery, croquet or falconry on the lawn. A walk through the Goodly Garden where ladies once gathered to gossip near the skep straw beehives, among the quince and strawberry trees. Or a walk through the labyrinth where they may have discussed who would succeed Anne Boleyn as queen. A mother, ten months after her stay in Thornbury, Anne was dead. Decapitated.

The location

Thornbury overlooks the Severn Estuary and is a short drive from Bristol, where you can visit the Clifton Suspension Bridge, the redeveloped harbor and Brunel’s SS Great Britain.

A slightly longer drive takes guests to Bath with its grand Regency architecture and Jane Austen’s legacy.

Other nice touches

A carafe of sloe gin, locally distilled, makes for a relaxing nightcap.

Reminiscent of a bygone era of service, tea and coffee can be delivered early in the morning. Even though in the bedroom there is a very impressive tray for tea and coffee, including a copper coffee maker.

No characterless, lukewarm breakfast buffet here. A piping hot breakfast is freshly prepared to order. The tea does not come from an electric machine either. The aristocratic tea menu consists of Halmari Estate Assam and Himalayan Darjeeling. Naturally, both decaffeinated tea and coffee are available.

For a unique celebration of a special occasion, you can book a private dinner in the dungeon.

Costs

Bedroom rates start from £299. For dinner, three courses from the a la carte menu cost £59.

The best part

Book a tour with a historian and discover how the Stafford’s relations with King Henry VII were a microcosm of the Tudor period: power, conflict and beheadings. By the end of Henry’s reign in 1547, executions had decimated the Stafford family tree.

Using stone from his Cotswold quarries, Edward Stafford designed a grand castle that was also a palace that arrogantly glorified his status. His name and titles are displayed above the gate and his sealed heraldic coats of arms are carved throughout the building.

As the second richest man in England, descended from Edward III, he thought he had a better claim to the throne than his cousin, Henry VII. As historian David Starkey has written, Stafford barely bent the knee to Henry. That was until Henry lured Stafford to London and had him beheaded in 1521.

The final verdict

A fascinating insight into Tudor times with contemporary royal comfort. There is a helipad for those who travel from afar for Chef David Campbell’s exquisite dishes.

Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Thornbury Castle Hotel and Restaurant.

Michael Edwards

Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, United Kingdom. Although Michael published his first travel stories almost forty years ago, he still finds new luxury destinations to visit and write about.