Exploring the changing landscape of Oceanside, California /

OCEANSIDE, CALIFORNIA – Visitors to this coastal Southern California town will still find relics from its days when it was best known as a place for soldiers stationed at nearby Camp Pendleton to let off steam. There are old-fashioned movie theaters and diners, and a number of small barbershops proudly flying the Stars and Stripes and offering haircuts for as little as $11.

The changing face of Oceanside, CA

But things are starting to change in Oceanside. A new waterfront Wyndham hotel popped up a few years ago. SpringHill Suites by Marriott followed suit. And then came the Mission Pacific and the Seabird, two sparkling boutique hotels with rooftop bars that rose on former parking lots overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Goodbye greasy bacon and eggs, hello avocado toast.

“Fifteen years ago nobody wanted to come downtown,” says Kim Heim of the Oceanside Business Association. “There would be soldiers in the bars and fights in the streets.” (I did some research on the town’s history and read that there were billboards along the highway advising people to “Tan Your Hide in Oceanside.”)

Oceanside Street Market

Heim thought that a street market could attract people who were hesitant to go downtown. There were some early clashes, “but in the end the interests of the many outweighed the interests of the few,” he said.

“Suddenly it was ‘boom!’ The public took over the market. And now we get 400,000 people a year.”

During the day, you’ll find vendors selling t-shirts, candles, and California-themed items. At night, the vendors are supplemented by about 100 food trucks, offering everything from Greek food to real Thai and thick, rich cream puffs.

Kim shuffles away and returns with a large plate of Southern Thailand style Pad Thai, with a hint of coconut and absolutely fabulous.

A food lover’s dream

“I wanted food to be the real focus,” says Heim. “And I wanted it to be authentic. The empanada truck is run by a guy from Venezuela. The Pad Thai truck is run by a family from Thailand.”

The market was overrun with people from all walks of life on the night we visited. People craved ribs, North African chicken and Hong Kong noodles as they walked along the market’s four city blocks, which are closed to cars. At the edge of the market a woman of a certain age sat alone singing show tunes your grandmother would know. In the middle of the action, a big band played the ska song “Monkey Man.”

“I don’t think this market would work in Del Mar or La Jolla,” both upscale San Diego suburbs. But it operates in Oceanside and attracts diverse people from both San Diego County and nearby Orange County.

“People like to rub shoulders with other people in an authentic setting,” Heim says. “Here you find people who can’t rub two nickels together mingling with millionaires. And you can’t tell them apart.”

The Sunset Market is a great place to mingle with the locals and save on a nice meal. Check out what to do at the Sunset Market here.

Flashy hotels and rooftop pools

The most catchy newcomers are Mission Pacific and Seabird Resort, both flashy hotels with rooftop pools and bars, plenty of colorful local art, and a decidedly youthful vibe.

The Mission Pacific has a very nice bar on the top floor with craft cocktails and great views of the city and beach, including Oceanside’s 592-foot pier, said to be the longest wooden pier on the west coast of the US. There is also a nice swimming pool.

Seabird Resort is more family oriented and shows ‘dive-in’ movies at the rooftop pool. You’ll also find a fun games room with pool tables and vibrant, primary colors.

“The hotels were game changers for Oceanside,” says Mission Pacific Marketing Manager Alison Norwood. “This was the largest beachfront development in San Diego County in the last 50 years.”

Things to do in Oceanside, California

Top Gun house

Resting in front of the Mission Pacific is a lovely Victorian home that has moved here from another part of town. It was the beach house from the original Top Gun movie. The house now offers a place where ice cream cakes are sold and memorabilia from the movie is displayed.

Coastal path along the ocean

If you need to work off one of the ice cream cakes, try renting a bike and taking a ride on the town’s paved coastal path. This coastal path is an easy cycle path that runs along the waterfront for 7.5km. The plan is to extend it to 44 miles to run between Oceanside and San Diego.

Kayaking and sea lions

Another great way to work up a sweat is a kayak tour of Oceanside’s tidy harbor, where you’ll find everything from humble houseboats to gleaming yachts. The harbor is also home to huge sea lions, who sometimes rest on a raft built for them, but seem to prefer lounging on the back part of whichever boat has their way. Take a moment to admire some of the clever boat names as you glide along, including Deep Devocean, Liquid Liability, and Kelpless, which might belong to a Neil Young fan.

kayaking: Boats for Rent offers kayaks for $30 for one hour or $40 for two hours. They also have stand up paddle boards, electric boats and other rentals. There is a nice village on the harbor, with a restaurant on the water, small shops and a coffee shop.

Mission San Luis Rey

Tucked into the hills is Mission San Luis Rey, the largest of the 21 missions built by Spanish explorers trying to convert local Indians to Christianity (and take their land). It is a beautiful white building with towering arches and a beautiful chapel. There is also a fine museum that tells the story of the Spanish missions, as well as the indigenous people who have lived here for thousands of years.

Mission San Luis Rey is a great place for anyone interested in California history. Visit Mission San Luis Rey to plan your visit.

Oceanside Pier

The Oceanside Pier is a great place to take in the sunset or watch surfers in action. This popular landmark is one of the longest wooden piers on the West Coast, stretching 642 meters into the Pacific Ocean. Take a stroll around this historic landmark dating back to 1888. It is always bustling with activity and there are several restaurants and cafes nearby with other amenities including restrooms and fishing gear hire.

Oceanside Pier has been featured in many Hollywood movies and TV shows, including Top Gun. Check out the program at Oceanside Pier.

Oceanside art museum

Back downtown is the lovely Oceanside Museum of Art. When we visited, we found a wide variety of paintings, including wild pop art, sunny landscapes, wavy, metal sculptures, and work by local black artists. The Oceanside Museum of Art is a bright, compact place for art lovers. Visit their website for current events and exhibitions

Oceanside Surf Museum

A short walk away is the Oceanside Surf Museum, which features a monstrous, heavy wooden sign used by Duke Kahanamoku and the one legendary surfer Bethany Hamilton was riding in Hawaii when she was attacked by a shark and lost her arm. The store also sells surf books, coffee mugs, and vintage Hawaiian shirts.

The California Surf Museum is a must for anyone who enjoys surfing or seeing surfers in action. Visit their website for more details.

How do I get to Oceanside, CA

One of the great advantages of Oceanside is that it is located on a rail line that connects San Diego to Los Angeles and Santa Barbara. The train station is a few blocks from the beach and a five-minute walk from the main downtown hotels. A ride from San Diego only costs about $20 USD and takes only an hour. The train also stops in the thriving resort town of Carlsbad, which has a nice downtown area and a lovely beach.

Where to stay in Oceanside

The Mission Pacific is a beautiful boutique hotel across the street from the beach that is part of the JDV by Hyatt collection. Most rooms have at least a partial ocean view. The rooftop bar serves delicious cocktails in a sexy setting. Their Hi-Low restaurant serves fresh California cuisine and has a lovely outdoor patio, while Valle serves dishes from award-winning chef Robert Alcocer. For the rooftop bar, try the Moonlight cocktail with gin, strawberry and hibiscus tea.

Next door, The Seabird Resort, a Hyatt destination, is a little more youthful and flashy, but just as well done. There is also a nice spa and a small kiosk that sells Top Gun accessories. Both hotels have tons of local art curated by the Oceanside Museum of Art.

Where to eat in Oceanside

Craft Coast Tacos and Beer serves tasty local beers and good tacos. The guacamole could use some spice.

Beach Break Cafe is a great surf and skateboard themed breakfast spot in south Oceanside. The avocado omelette seemed to have half an avocado filled and the eggs came with a small mound of potatoes.

The Lab Collaborative serves everything from burgers and pasta to marinated pork and steak salad. The wine prices were reasonable when we visited.

For more information about visiting Oceanside, California, visit VisitOceanside.org