Review: Pel’s Post at The Outpost Lodge, Kruger National Park, South Africa

The Kruger National Park is the largest park in South Africa and covers no less than 2 million hectares of wilderness. The majority of visitors travel to the south of the park, leaving the north largely untouched and decidedly quieter. The northeastern corner of the country and park is Pafuri, which is home to some remarkable landscapes, flora and fauna. The Outpost Lodge is one of only two lodges in the area – when I first visited in 2019 I boldly named it my favorite lodge in South Africa. Five years on, and after visiting more than 40 lodges, The Outpost is still firmly in the top spot.

The welcome

After the six-hour drive from Johannesburg, it was pure joy to arrive at the Pafuri Gate of the Kruger National Park. After the entrance fee it is a short 15 minute drive to the main lodge. The staff greets you with a lavender and orange scented refreshment towel, followed by a glass of refreshing homemade ginger beer. Check-in then takes place at the pool diapers, and before you know it a wildlife vehicle will take you to Pel’s Post. Here follows another warm welcome from the staff and an orientation to the smaller lodge and accommodation, together with an explanation of the daily safari rhythm of two game drives and the dinner program.

The room

One of The Outpost’s hero features is undoubtedly its architecturally designed suites, or as they are called at the lodge, ‘rooms’. They’re so aptly named: When you walk in, there’s a handheld remote control, and at the touch of a button, both the front and sides quickly raise. What you are left with is a truly remarkable accommodation space, completely open to the wild. The elevated position of the rooms means you are safe from wildlife and you can also sleep with the sides up.

Upon entering the space there are two day beds, next to a dressing table with a tea and coffee station. In true safari style, the four-poster beds are fitted with elegant white nets to keep unwanted critters at bay at night. A closed toilet is followed by an indoor shower and then a lovely outdoor shower. On the veranda there is a table and chairs, as well as two sun loungers to enjoy the sun. Within minutes of arriving we had lifted the sides and here we were with a glass of wine from the well stocked bar fridge.

The Outpost is known for the freestanding bathtubs that adorn the living areas. The main lodge features oversized stone tubs, and at Pel’s Post classic white tubs – and because the side walls are raised, you can look out over the Luvuvhu River from your tub. My suggestion is to forgo one of the evening game drives, take a bath at sunset and watch a hundred shades of sunset color the sky.

The facilities

During COVID, expansion renovations were made to the lodge, giving it a fresh look. Wooden paths take you between all the accommodation areas and lodges and wind their way through the natural vegetation: a rather enchanting experience at night when they are illuminated and guide you back to your bed. The space in the main house includes an indoor dining area with a fireplace, a lounge area and then the bar. Chic interiors offer a modern feel, but also homely enough that we felt comfortable sitting with our feet up in front of the fire in the evenings and playing board games. You can also dine al fresco on the outside deck, weather permitting. The pool has a series of inviting lounges with views for days, a sala for those seeking respite from the sun, and adjacent to the pool the fire pit is always ready to welcome you after an evening game drive.

Because the accommodation areas offer such unparalleled views, The Outpost has no need for a separate spa area. Instead, portable beds are set up in the comfort of your own space and the therapists begin to work their magic on your tired body. Treatments are available as individual or couples massages, with many options. One of the most unique of these is the two-hour ‘African Spice Celebration’ – a combination of traditional herbs and traditional medicine to stimulate the body and lighten the skin. The treatment consists of an exfoliation, body wrap and full body massage.

The location

While in northern Kruger the focus shifts from chasing the Big 5 checklists, there is still plenty of game to be seen. On our first ride we saw leopards, wild dogs, hyenas, elephants and a large number of antelope species. Impressive, even by South Kruger standards. The area is also a Mecca for birdwatchers – it’s no surprise that the region is home to a whopping 80% of Kruger’s biodiversity!

Pafuri is home to some of the most beautiful trees in the country. If you first drive along the Luvuvhu River, you will meet the first gigantic Nyala and Jacklebery trees. Later on our drive we arrived somewhere magical: the largest fever tree forest in the world. Hundreds of yellow trees create a truly enchanting environment. Perhaps most impressive are the region’s millennia-old Baobab trees. These ancient sentinels stand out with their arms reaching over the shrub below…

Having visited almost 80 lodges over the years, I am always happy when one of them surprises me with something new or innovative. When we returned from our last game drive, we noticed a warning sign up ahead. Upon closer inspection, our eyes turned from shock to excitement as we read the small text underneath – we were about to approach a gin drive-through! 100 yards further on we passed a table laden with gin paraphernalia, and an enthusiastic ‘Welcome to our gin drive-through. Choose your drink from the menu.” There were several options available, and once we placed our orders the mixology began, and minutes later we were served bush ‘sippy cups’ with our favorite drink.

The Outpost Lodge falls under the Rare Earth Collection and one of the properties in the collection happens to be Kay & Monty Vineyards – a wine estate in Plettenberg Bay, on South Africa’s Garden Route. It is therefore logical that these sensational wines are The Outpost’s house offering. The white, red, rosé and sparkling wines are tempting options on the drinks menu and have the novelty of having their origins in one of the country’s smallest and least known wine-producing regions. Thanks to the region’s unique terroir, the wines also contain fewer sulfates, reducing the unwanted memory of the evening’s liquid spoilage the next morning.

Costs

The rates for the Outpost vary depending on the season and the length of stay. In addition, like many other lodges in South Africa, the lodge also has permanent special rates for SADC (Southern African Development Community) – the rates are especially good for last-minute space. The regular rate costs €400 pp. Please note that Pel’s Post only sleeps eight, and if you book all accommodation spaces there is no additional charge for the ‘exclusive use’ of the lodge.

The best part

Crossing rights over parts of the Kruger means access to certain sights that none of the public can visit. This part of Pafuri (known as the Makuleke Concession) is only accessible to guests of two lodges, one of which is the Buitenpost. Of these exclusive sights, perhaps none is as amazing as Lanner Gorge. Over thousands of years, the Luvuvhu River has carved out the gorge, which is partly 150 meters deep. The age of the gorge is confirmed by the presence of dinosaur fossils found in the sandstone cliffs! It is not at all an exaggeration to say that this is my favorite place on earth – and with the privilege of having seen some spectacular places as a travel journalist – I say this with some authority. After a sundowner experience at Lanner Gorge, other sunset experiences will pale in comparison.

The final verdict

There is simply no better place to unravel the wonders of northern Kruger than The Outpost Lodge – and combined with the intimacy of Pel’s Post, an exceptional bush escape for friends, family or a solo/couple trip – you will feel you have the lodge and a generous piece of African paradise to yourself.

Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by The Outpost Lodge.

Jared Ruttenberg

Jared Ruttenberg is a freelance travel journalist who enjoys connecting people and experiences through words, images and social media. Read more at www.jaredincpt.com